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Bulgarian Collection
Bulgaria, which is bordered by Romania, the former Yugoslavia and Greece, was occupied for 500 years by the Turks, forming part of the Ottoman Empire and resulting in a very varied tradition of national costumes and folk embroidery. In every region of the country, Bulgarian women have created magnificent woven cloth, rugs, garments, knitting, bed linen and towels. Domestic textiles, especially the towels or kenareni, which were two metres long and made of silk were placed on mirrors or given as presents and were richly decorated.
Bulgarian costumes were traditionally embroidered along the hems of sleeves, bosoms and tails of the chemise, along the seams of underwear and on top garments, kerchiefs and aprons. Domestic textiles, especially the towels or kenareni, which were two metres long, made of silk and richly decorated, were placed over mirrors or given as presents.
Geometric motifs were the most often used and usually formed stripes. The lozenge or square were most common, with rectangular and triangular shapes in a secondary position and there were many linear, animal, floral, human and symbolic motifs which were all stylized and depicted geometrically. The meanings of these motifs signified the bringing of health, prosperity, fertility and victory over evil powers. The colours used were mainly warm, with a strong predominance of red complemented by blue, green, yellow, white, black, and brown. Traditionally, red was the colour which had power to avert evil spirits or bad luck but in some regions in the north the embroidery was mainly dark brown and black, with the same significance as the red in other areas.

The embroidery skills of young girls were considered to be among their most important assets and the choice of a bride often depended on the number and artistic quality of her clothes, embroidered textiles and other elements of her dowry made by her personally. She sometimes made a sampler or sashiv which displayed her technical skills and served as a pattern book for the motifs to be stitched on her garments.
The costumes were all complemented by exquisite jewellery consisting of necklaces of small coins and seashells and an enormous variety of adornments for the head, hands and body, fashioned from silver filigree threads and grains and open-work
Bulgarian embroidery was done with a metal needle, the fabric stretched on a frame, using various stitches: horizontal or vertically inclined straight or split stitch, sometimes called Slav stitch, and cross stitch or Koumanian stitch. Silk, cotton, wool and metallic, mainly golden, threads were used. Although, there were so many variations in Bulgarian embroidery, the symbols which were handed down through the generations had many unifying features and have given way to an original decorativeness which has become a dominant feature of Bulgarian culture.
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