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Caucasian Collection

The Caucasus area is a geopolitical region situated between Europe, Asia and the Middle East and thus is an area of the world where many cultures converge. The Caucasus Mountains are considered the dividing line between Europe and Asia. The region consists of the nation states of Georgia, Armenia, and Azerbaijan, with the Russian divisions of Krasnodar Krai, Stavropol Krai and the autonomous republics of Adygea, Karachay-Cherkessia, Kabardino-Balkaria, North Ossetia, Ingushetia, Chechnya and Dagestan, plus Abkhazia, Nagorno-Karabakh and South Ossetia, which claim independence but are nor recognised by the international community. The Republic of Armenia is a landlocked, mountainous country in the South Caucasus situated between the Black Sea and the Caspian Sea, bordering Turkey to the west, Azerbaijan to the east, Georgia to the north and Iran to the south.

Armenia has a rich culture, its National Gallery holding more than 16,000 works dating back to the Middle Ages. There is a craft market in Yerevan, its capital city, which sells locally made artefacts on a Wednesday and at weekends, especially jewellery made from locally mined obsidian and beautifully crafted gold. Hand-knotted kelims and wool carpets which are a Caucasian speciality are also sold here. Needlework is the most widespread craft amongst the Armenian people and was used for covering manuscripts, books, curtains, banners, tablecloths, chalice covers, ritual vestments, belts, mitres and slippers. Religious embroideries depict scenes of the Annunciation and Baptism. The St. Etchmiadzin monastery exhibits silk embroideries on mitres in gold and silver with precious and semi precious stones and there are many silk embroideries in deep red. As far as Armenian costume is concerned, very few records remain of a once thriving tradition. Girls slowly started to make garments for their trousseau, other members of the family, friends and skilful neighbours all joining in as the wedding date approached. Bead spreads, pillow cases, towels, table linen, curtains and wall hangings all constituted part of the trousseau. Hand ornamentation and bright colour were liberally employed. Clothes were often worn in layers in the colder regions of the country. Silk, velvet, furs and especially ermine (a word derived from Armenia) were very popular. Ermine was exported to Europe. Sometimes customs even dictated that the girl had to show her skills by weaving carpets. However, the greatest care was lavished on making the bridal gown itself. A whole day would be set aside to exhibit the completed trousseau when the bride’s skills could be evaluated. Men’s clothing was far less exacting and thus the strong visual Armenian identity rested on the woman’s appearance.

As Georgia is situated along the silk routes it has a long standing textile tradition. The production of wool and silk began in ancient times for domestic use but it was not until the Soviet era that textile industries were set up for commercial trading. Although nowadays this industry has mainly shrunk there are still small factories in Tbilisi producing woollen yarns, fabrics and blankets. Tbilisi boasts of a Silk Museum which specialises in textiles and it exhibits all stages of silk production from Mulberry trees and silk worms, through traditional machinery to finished patterned silk fabrics. The State Museum of Georgia owns ethnographic textiles, samplers, embroideries and beadwork as well as Georgian rugs and kelims. The Department of Tapestry and Textiles of the Tbilisi State Academy of Art is the leading institution of textile studies in Georgia and also owns a tapestry museum. In general, traditional Georgian costume is of a similar type throughout the country with some small regional variations in certain areas. Georgians, together with other Caucasian artisans produce very beautiful woven rugs (kelims) and bags. These are usually woven by the slit tapestry method and can sometimes be very large. The designs usually consist of clear coloured, bold patterns of hooked medallions arranged in bands.

Azerbaijan is renowned for its embroidered textiles with the use of colourful threads, sometimes gold and silver and beads making geometric patterns on thin woollen fabric called "Tirme". Colourful birds and animals are also used as motifs on veils, shawls and carpets. The skills of making both knotted and woven carpets a have been handed down for generations in Azeri culture and many wonderful examples can be seen in the Latif Kerimov Museum in the nation's capital, Baku as well as in all the great collections around the world.


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